at the heart of paradise
Thailand’s tourist-go-to island of Phuket is certainly no secret. It is so well known in fact, that it seems almost every part has been taken over by beach umbrellas and beach bars. If you’re in search of true seclusion, set your course due east for the smaller island of Ko Yao Noi and the Six Senses Resort.
Board a speedboat at Ao Por Grand Marina (a 30-minute drive from Phuket International Airport) and settle in for the 45-minute ride to the eastern coast of Yao Noi island. This journey through Phang Nga Bay is just as memorable as the destination itself: As you glide between towering verdant limestone formations jutting out of the sea, it’s easy to understand why travellers have been lured to this bay for generations.
Meandering up a densely forested hill and with only 56 guestrooms, this all-villa retreat is worlds away from the relative hustle of Phuket. The thatched roofs and sturdy stilts make each of the luxurious suites feel like fantastical grown-up tree houses (most have private plunge pools). And the full roster of activities—Muay Thai classes, movies on the beach, spa treatments, cooking course, a visit to their farm, and more—ensure that there’s never a dull moment.
I smiled as our speedboat finally arrived and saw the resort’s main hill jut out from the sea. On top, the villas’ thatched roofs are barely visible through the jungle foliage. From wherever you look, moss-covered limestone formations dot the horizon. This is Southern Thailand in all its green- and azure-hued glory, far away from the overdeveloped beaches you encounter on the surrounding islands. Think ‘Jungle Book’, but make it a destination where you can take off your mental mask—the one we wear day in, day out, from our chosen line of work to social obligations—and truly feel the essence of coming home. This honest, barefoot-luxury, storybook stay has won me over.
Most resorts wouldn’t bring their guests behind the scenes. But for Six Senses, sustainability isn’t just a marketing statement, it’s in their DNA. They have their lemongrass drinking straws and reusable glass water bottles, of course, but do much more than that, and will proudly show you. On a complimentary tour, guests will visit the resort’s small farm and the recycling plant, where old furniture is made into nesting boxes for the local hornbill population; the Finance department’s staples end up in prosthetics for the nearby hospital, and drinking water is sourced from the 12 deep wells that dot the resort. Plastic is a dirty word here, and the resort has virtually banned it throughout.
Each of the resort’s villas is designed as a secluded tropical hideout—whether they boast ocean views, direct beach access, or are hidden deep in the jungle. Layout-wise, they’re all fairly similar (bar a few of the multi-bedroom villas and the honeymoon suite), sporting private infinity pools, outdoor showers, and sunken bathtubs positioned to soak up the views. Against a backdrop of teak wood and bamboo, driftwood bedposts make the mosquito nets look like chic bed drapes, while canary-yellow day beds and blinds add a ray of sunshine to even the dreariest of days.
Both of the resort’s main restaurants cook as much as possible with produce from the on-site organic gardens, farm, and mushroom hut. The Dining Room occupies a two-floor pavilion deep inside the jungle, with babbling streams visible through its glass floor. Dinner here is a love affair (think lobster, wagyu beef, and duck confit) with an impressive wine list to boot. Down by the beach, The Living Room dishes out comfort food throughout the day, including perfectly cooked Thai classics, salad bowls, and Indian specialties. Breakfast is also served here, and consists of an à la carte menu (try the mixed fruit smoothie bowl topped with chia and goji) and a buffet of Asian breakfast dishes (congee, wok-fried noodles, dim sum, the works), perfectly flaky pastries, and cheeses from the well-kept deli counter. But best of all: free house-made ice cream—all day, every day!
Let’s put it this way: even the resort’s chicken coop is decked out with a sound system playing jazz tunes, you can be sure that its human guests are in very good hands. A battalion of linen-clad GEMs (Guest Experience Makers) live up to their job title and shine in delivering top-notch intuitive service, from getting your private terrace lounge-ready while you’re having breakfast, to providing entertainment for the little ones and making sure you pack a bottle of the house-made mosquito repellent wherever you go. Smiley gardeners wave when you breeze past in a buggy, and the friendly restaurant staff are always down for a chat.
When it’s time to leave, a crew of staff will wave you goodbye until your boat is just a tiny dot in the sea. Six Senses Yao Noi is the beating heart of inspiration to most luxury properties in the world. Not only are they making an impact in the lives of their guests, they also make the world a better place.
Only the best,
Lucas Raven
